Food & Spirits

El Cholo Cafe: Serving Up Quality and Tradition Since 1923

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For over 83 years El Cholo has been serving up authentic Mexican food in Los Angeles. And after all these years, the reasons why Angelenos keep returning time after time remain the same: quality and tradition.

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This true Los Angeles institution continues to produce green corn tamales straight from heaven and the best, strongest margaritas in LA. In 1996 they had sold enough tortillas that if they were laid end to end, they would stretch?three and a half?times around the world and would pile as high as 6,146 Empire State Buildings. But it?s the feeling of family you get upon entering the heavy wood doors, the friendly service and savory, one-of-a-kind dishes that have kept it one of LA?s favorites.

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On the day we visited, we saw first-hand what defines the El Cholo family. The bar was packed with USC students, alums and fans in town for the Homecoming game later that day. Its proximity to the University of Southern California has made it a legend among students. As an ?SC graduate myself, I don?t know of one fellow grad who hasn?t partaken in their famous margaritas and crisp (and perfectly salted) chips and salsa. Not one to ignore its loyal patrons, El Cholo welcomes its spot in the Trojan family, offering student discounts and even dedicating a room to University paraphernalia.

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This feeling of family is at the core of El Cholo?s success. Many of their workers have been there for years, even half-centuries. The friendly wait staff, dressed in traditional Mexican costume, greeted us with smiles and made us feel instantly welcome. Our waiter Luis made sure we had everything we needed and helped us choose the perfect items for an authentic El Cholo feast. We finally decided on a cheesy plate of nachos, sizzling shrimp fajitas and savory crab enchiladas. The nachos were crisp, the fajitas full of flavor and the enchiladas some of the best and most original we?ve tasted. With mariachi music playing in the background, platters of delicious authentic food and a traditional, festive atmosphere, we felt transported back to old Mexico.

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El Cholo is rich in family tradition and history. Even the menu tells a story. Next to each selection is the year the item was created and added to the menu. The cover itself, seemingly an insignificant sketch, is the inspiration behind the restaurant?s legendary name.

The El Cholo story goes all the way back to 1922, when Alejandro Borquez stood up from his family?s dinner table and infamously told his young wife, Rosa, ?You are such a good cook we should open up a restaurant.? A year later, the Borquezes opened the Sonora Caf? in a small storefront at Broadway and Santa Barbara Avenue. It wasn?t until 1925 that the name was changed to El Cholo.

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As legend has it, a guest wandered in for dinner, and while waiting for his food to arrive drew a figure of a man on the menu and called him ?El Cholo,? which in those days was the name given by Spanish settlers to their field hands. Alejandro liked the drawing and the name stuck. Immediately Sonora Caf? become El Cholo.

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In 1927 a new restaurant was opened by the Borquez’s daughter, Aurelia, and her husband George Salisbury (who actually met his wife while dining at her family?s restaurant). The new El Cholo opened at 11th and Western, across the street from the current site, with eight stools, three booths and a hot top stove. The stove is still on display in the lobby!

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After the? move across the street in 1931 into an old California bungalow, El Cholo regulars Gary Cooper, Bing Crosby and Loretta Young still continued to fill the comfy booths and barstools. The new home became the origin of many historic El Cholo moments. In 1959, Carman Rocha joined the staff and began making a dish called ?nachos? that she made in her hometown of San Antonio. Instantly, history was made. History was made again in 1967, when a longtime guest taught the El Cholo staff how to make a great margarita. Eventually El Cholo became the world’s largest user of Cuervo 1800 Tequila and the first to introduce premium ingredients in a margarita.

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Today, El Cholo has served possibly the most diverse clientele of any restaurant in Los Angeles including celebrities such as Jack Nicholson, Warren Beatty, Michele Phillips, Nolan Ryan, Neil Papiano, Marlon Brando, Madonna, Elizabeth Taylor, George Hamilton, Mayor Dick Riordan, Tom Hanks, and Eddie Sheldrake.

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Their famous Green Corn Tamales are shipped around the world. They are made fresh and served at the restaurant only from May through October. On opening day guests are lined up at the front door to be the first to enjoy this delicacy that Rosa Borquez brought from her early days in The Arizona Territory.

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El Cholo now has a family of restaurants to satisfy their loyal patrons all over the Los Angeles area. The original has sister restaurants in Santa Monica, La Habra and Irvine; you can also visit Caf? El Cholo in La Habra, The Cat? & The Custard Cup, also in La Habra, El Cholo Cantina in Irvine, Sonora Caf? in Los Angeles, Cafe Maiz in Mission Viejo?and The Cannery in Newport Beach.

www.elcholo.com

About the author

Kyra Lausmann