By Jill Blackford
I was a bit skeptical, I must admit. Having helped put on Gen Art events when I lived in New York City, I knew its productions were high caliber. But I wasn’t sure that L.A., more often noted for a lack of design prowess than praised for its vision, could measure up. In terms of cutting-edge design, it did.
The tenth L.A. Fresh Faces, held at the Petersen Automotive Museum on October 12th, showcased new designers – from the soldier-status line of Christian Weber to the versatile knits by Marlova. The standout draped-silk sets by best-friend duo Suh-Tahn were refreshing in their nod to both nature and architecture.
“This season is more about contrast,” says Suh-Tahn’s female half Shannon Nataf. “That contrast of nature, of hard versus soft, organic versus modern — and that feel of the mountains.”
Vince sweater design alum Julie debuted her Rhys Dwfen line, but had none of the stress one might assume would go along with your first show.
“I just take it as it is. There is a soul vibe going for spring, and that is what my collection is based on,” says Julie, whose pieces stood out for their simplicity. “I was inspired by music as well, and everything fell into place from there.”
Orthodox harked back to the Catholic School boy days of knee socks and cropped shorts, with just enough edge to make it all feel appropriately naughty. Marlova’s headwear was perfectly modern in its hybrid of peasant girl and Middle Eastern echoes. And the asymmetrical – make that geometrical – shapes some of these spring 2008 lines embody are a not so oxymoronic comfortable but austere.
There was one technical difficulty – the music went silent during Christian Weber’s showcase – that could have signaled disaster for a less forgiving crowd. But this group of L.A. scenesters and fashion-forwards greeted those models that did the catwalk sans melody with cheers. Many of the models did seem a bit wary to be in the spotlight (although for Endovanera’s histrionic menswear line, that was the point). Paula Abdul made a statement in the front row in a cellophane-silver cap, and TV’s Malaya Drew Rivera and Kathleen Robertson attended as well.
The venue itself, while one of the city’s coolest museums, wasn’t quite the ideal set-up for a runway, and rain (gasp!) made the outdoor bar and port-o-potty lines even less appealing. But the crowd of 1,000+ was happy to sip honey-infused vodka with a splash of Brawls and huddle closer under shelter from the rain.
All in all it was a laudable event, fitting for a tenth anniversary – and one that should increasingly make the rest of the international design set take notice of the city of Angels. Even if it isn’t Paris.
